Shinerider Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 Bought the bike in Dec 2019 - going to see if Velorangutan can talk to Raceface about warranty. I know - longshot. But, in the meantime - might https://austin.craigslist.org/bop/d/austin-wtb-29-super-boost-wheelset/7379165159.html Since I seem to be the only fool with superboost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattlikesbikes Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 12 minutes ago, Shinerider said: RaceFace AR35 Offset 29er | 35mm inner You might check with Wes @xl_cheese. I'm pretty sure I just did a rim swap the other week from an ar35 to carbon. Not sure if the customer kept his old rims when I returned the wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Was surprised by these results. X01 Eagle XTR SGS 12spd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockshins Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 On 9/19/2021 at 12:05 PM, bestbike85 said: As I grow older I am finding ways to enjoy cycling by doing more with less. I've sold off the big expensive bikes, and toned down my bike budget significantly simply to do so. I have recently given the single speed life a gander, and I just don't think it's for me. While the simplicity is awesome, I like to go faster at times and slower at other time. However, if I had 2 mountain bikes one would definitely be a single speed. Anyways, enter my Sunday morning project. Advent X installation on the salsa timberjack 27.5+ with the chain stays slammed to 420. All parts installed include: cassette, rear derailleur, shifter, shimano cable housing and a kmc x10 chain, for a grand total of $215. I'll report back after a few rides. How goes the advent x? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestbike85 Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 2 hours ago, rockshins said: How goes the advent x? Unfortunately I have only gotten 2 brief rides on it. Since I've completed the install I've been out of town back to back weekends, and my week day rides are almost all pre sunrise, so I stick to the drop bar bikes. I'm home this coming weekend, so I will get a good rip on it then revisit the thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestbike85 Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 On 10/4/2021 at 3:03 PM, rockshins said: How goes the advent x? After a couple more rides on it I feel I can speak to it now. I honestly don’t think I’ll ever need to upgrade further. In my recent experience I have had GX eagle, NX eagle, and XT 11 speed, and I honestly think the Advent shift equal or cleaner than all of them. Im not sensitive to shifter “quality”, I know which button to press when I need something to change and it does it. Could the shift be more “spongey”? Maybe but I can’t tell and I don’t have one of those groups now to test side by side with. What really surprises me is how quiet it is when riding. That could have something to do with the new KMC chain too, but it doesn’t matter what gear I’m in, it’s silent. I personally prefer the 48 to an eagle 50 or 52. I always felt the 50 had really awkward cadence, and the 48 is less awkward when paired with the standard 32t chainring. Overall I couldn’t recommend it enough. For $215 total including cable housing and chain this is an incredible bargain. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 9 hours ago, bestbike85 said: I personally prefer the 48 to an eagle 50 or 52. I always felt the 50 had really awkward cadence, and the 48 is less awkward when paired with the standard 32t chainring. Yeah, I am not a fan of the 50 either. I have a 32 on the front and an Eagle with 50 on the back. I toy with the idea of throwing a 34 on the front because in the 50 I just spin too much and don't have enough leverage to make that gear useable for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted October 19, 2021 Share Posted October 19, 2021 Is this typical of what you get from DT Swiss wheels? When I build a wheel, I deburr all the holes to prevent exactly this type of problem. I had air leaking through the spokes and was surprised to find the cause. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Today's rainy day fun is to finally REALLY learn how to use a torque wrench. Bonus to those crazy Basques for putting all of the torque specs on each of the bolts. Makes life so much better. And, yes, this was the problem bolt. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 After getting a flat at CP last Saturday I discovered a flaw in my torque strategy: rear through axle is bolt on and say 10nm on the bolt. Didn't happen to have a torque wrench with me. Was thinking about getting one of these to throw in the pack: https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestacycle-torqkey-10nm-t-handle-torque-limiting-bits-tool/ Anyone else have a better idea? The problem is 10nm is a lot of force and probably easy to misjudge, in either direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notyal Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 29 minutes ago, AustinBike said: After getting a flat at CP last Saturday I discovered a flaw in my torque strategy: rear through axle is bolt on and say 10nm on the bolt. Didn't happen to have a torque wrench with me. Was thinking about getting one of these to throw in the pack: https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestacycle-torqkey-10nm-t-handle-torque-limiting-bits-tool/ Anyone else have a better idea? The problem is 10nm is a lot of force and probably easy to misjudge, in either direction. That should work. My question is, is it that important to have your rear axle precisely torqued in the unfortunate situation of replacing a flat? You're already running compromised with a tube. At home, you're going to remove the wheel to replace the tire and can reset the torque there. So, you're going to carry an single purpose tool for every mile of every trail ride just to have the exact torque for one bolt for a handful of miles after a flat? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack_turtle Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 (edited) I'm not sure this would hold up to scientific scrutiny: when I know I have torqued a bolt at home with a precision tool, and I need to loosen it and tighten it on during a ride, I count the number of turns I make on the wrench when backing it off. then I make my adjustment and tighten it again with that same number of turns. I had to snug down my headset the other day and I used this technique on my stem: loosen each of the two pinch bolts by one full turn, make adjustments, line it up with the wheel, then tighten each bolt by one full turn. in theory, that works. do it enough times and you start to get a feel for what is tight-enough-but-not-too-tight on certain bolts. I would not rely on that all the time, but I feel safe doing this with my personal bike during a ride to allow me to finish it. Edited November 8, 2021 by mack_turtle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 I thought about it because my shifting was for shit all day. Tried the barrel adjusters over and over. Could have been the sand. But after washing and properly torquing, it shifts great. I am guessing that because it was carbon I was probably being too conservative and undertorquing it so that it was too loose, impacting the shifting. The was what got me down the whole rat hole this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 22 minutes ago, mack_turtle said: I'm not sure this would hold up to scientific scrutiny: when I know I have torqued a bolt at home with a precision tool, and I need to loosen it and tighten it on during a ride, I count the number of turns I make on the wrench when backing it off. then I make my adjustment and tighten it again with that same number of turns. I had to snug down my headset the other day and I used this technique on my stem: loosen each of the two pinch bolts by one full turn, make adjustments, line it up with the wheel, then tighten each bolt by one full turn. in theory, that works. do it enough times and you start to get a feel for what is tight-enough-but-not-too-tight on certain bolts. I would not rely on that all the time, but I feel safe doing this with my personal bike during a ride to allow me to finish it. That is a pretty good idea. But on the axle it probably won't work out as well because you have to remove it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 @AustinBikesince your bike has a concentric pivot around the rear axle, it’s more sensitive to the torque on the rear axle. My Ibis states a max torque setting, but specifically states to torque it to an amount that you could replicate with a multitool trail side. Since it’s effectively a linkage driven URT, the only real concern is stripping the bolt threads or crunching the carbon dropout which is harder to do by accident. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Your statement is unclear. Which one is a linkage driven URT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Sorry, the Ibis is. The rear triangle is all one (molded) unit with DW-Link, VPP, or Canfield Brothers Suspension (Revel) linkage bikes. Trek ABP and Dave Weagle’s Split Pivot (your Devinci) designs have the concentric pivot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 I have an Orbea Occam, not a Divinci. The Occam has an all in one molded unit as well. It would have been nice if they had a metal insert in the frame instead of just having raw carbon on the axle. On the drivetrain side they did an awesome job of integrating the axle into the hanger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Oh, sorry I completely misremembered what bike you have. The new Occam also has a split pivot I think, but not yours. I really wouldn’t worry about the axle torque then. I’d make sure the axle shaft is greased, then thread it in and crank it down with the same multitool you take on your rides. That way you can snug it with enough force you can replicate without tightening so much that your hand hurts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WLemke Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 Anyone have a DT Swiss 3 pawl ring nut removal tool that I could use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 Super genius or dumb as fuck? I like to ride ChamoisHagar on lots of the singletrack we have in the area, and I also like to protect my EIE ChiCarbon rims from various rock impacts. So I use inserts. I got about 4000 miles out of HuckNorris before I started having issues with them--front and rear. Unlike many inserts, HuckNorris isn't a contiguous circle of material, rather it's a single ribbon that you shove into the tire. They give you a cheesy little Velcro bit that you're supposed to use to tire them together. But that doesn't work at all, as one of the foam bits inevitably breaks reverting it back into a ribbon instead of a circle. So you just let it go and hope for the best. And that worked for a while, but then this ribbon starts bunching up on itself, and folding over in the tire. Well that's no good, since you have a very unbalanced rotational force that you can feel, and worse, you have sections of the rim wholly unprotected from the insert. So I'm on the look for another brand that works for this bike. But with 25.5mm IW rims, and 50mm tires, there are not many inserts that work for it. It falls between traditional gravel/CX and the typical small MTB versions. I keep looking. In the mean time, how to make HuckNorris work? I may have flossed out an idea! Sew, yeah. I just roughly stitched the two ends together with floss. Only time will tell if it holds out, but it passes an aggressive tug test. And I suppose it's worth noting that I've never had this folding/doubling up issue with my 27.5x2.6 tires using the plus versions of HuckNorris. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4fun Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Barry said: Super genius or dumb as fuck? I like to ride ChamoisHagar on lots of the singletrack we have in the area, and I also like to protect my EIE ChiCarbon rims from various rock impacts. So I use inserts. I got about 4000 miles out of HuckNorris before I started having issues with them--front and rear. Unlike many inserts, HuckNorris isn't a contiguous circle of material, rather it's a single ribbon that you shove into the tire. They give you a cheesy little Velcro bit that you're supposed to use to tire them together. But that doesn't work at all, as one of the foam bits inevitably breaks reverting it back into a ribbon instead of a circle. So you just let it go and hope for the best. And that worked for a while, but then this ribbon starts bunching up on itself, and folding over in the tire. Well that's no good, since you have a very unbalanced rotational force that you can feel, and worse, you have sections of the rim wholly unprotected from the insert. So I'm on the look for another brand that works for this bike. But with 25.5mm IW rims, and 50mm tires, there are not many inserts that work for it. It falls between traditional gravel/CX and the typical small MTB versions. I keep looking. In the mean time, how to make HuckNorris work? I may have flossed out an idea! Sew, yeah. I just roughly stitched the two ends together with floss. Only time will tell if it holds out, but it passes an aggressive tug test. And I suppose it's worth noting that I've never had this folding/doubling up issue with my 27.5x2.6 tires using the plus versions of HuckNorris. Are they too porous to super glue together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted December 3, 2021 Share Posted December 3, 2021 I thought about super glue, and also considered 'welding' them with a lighter. But I figured those options had single points of failure so I tried this. Although super glue may have made it significantly less cumbersome to sew. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 Barry, take a look at Tannus Tubeless Armor. They have a version for gravel tires, but they may only work up to 47 wide. I have the mountain bike version in my tires and they seem to work really well. Way easier to install than Cushcore, more protective than HuckNorris, and it’s one continuous loop. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 4, 2021 Share Posted December 4, 2021 8 hours ago, Teamsloan said: Barry, take a look at Tannus Tubeless Armor. They have a version for gravel tires, but they may only work up to 47 wide. I have the mountain bike version in my tires and they seem to work really well. Way easier to install than Cushcore, more protective than HuckNorris, and it’s one continuous loop. Those look pretty interesting. I'll keep them in mind the next time I buy an insert. Been running the Vittorias in my bikes and have been smashing rocks at speed (when possible) with no tire or insert failures. I did crack an ENVE rim but it was going on four years old. I think that's some some of record for longevity for ENVE. My best explanation of how they felt after installation is like replacing your worn out OEM struts on your car with Koni. Just totally settled the bike down. Bet they'd be great on a gravel bike and the runflat feature is nice too. I don't think they provide the absolute protection of cushcore but it's a happy medium. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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