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Chief

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23 hours ago, AustinBike said:

I am stunned, that in the world of 50T cassettes that anyone would believe that 2X gives you better range. To those guys it is the princess and the pea at this point in my head. I'd almost say that 1X is a bigger improvement than dropper posts. Almost. 

Rec for Princess and the Pea reference. #OldSchool

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So I pulled this 1" thorn from my front tire about 10 months ago. It was in there for probably 1-2 ride before I discovered it while checking sealant level. I pulled it and Stan's seemed to do it's job. The front tire holds pressure just as well as the rear even over several weeks. However, in that 10 months I always get a seepage from the hole. Should I plug it? Leave it? 

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glue a patch in that spot just like you would patch a tube.

I like using plugs as a temporary, trail-side solution. If the hole is big enough to need a plug, I don't trust the plug to hold on long term. it probably will work long term, but I don't want to take that risk. after plugging a tire, I wait until I have a little time to un-mount the tire, clean and dry the area where the hole is, and glue a patch in there. I bought a big sheet of about 50 tube patches and a jar of vulcanizing fluid just for this purpose.

Edited by mack_turtle
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For contrast, I've run plugs for the life of the tire on cars and motorcycles with never a failure over tens of thousands of miles.  There have been many folk relate taking the precaution as mentioned above and it is certainly a good method. Though, I have never heard from anyone with personal experience of a plug failing once set well enough to hold air in the tire.

Plugs can be finicky. I've had to double-plug on occasion before getting a puncture sealed. There are plugs in my backpack, but I've not had a need to plug a bicycle tire, yet. (now, I've opened the door for Murphy to give me a visit)

I'd plug that tire and keep running sealant. But, it is easy enough to put a patch on the inside.

Edited by Ridenfool
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I can think of two distinct situations when a plug fell out of a bicycle tire and ended my ride. one was an old plug that was in there for months. the other was a plug in a larger hole that was too big for the plug, which was one of those fat, black mondo Lezyne plugs that just slowly slid out about ten minutes after I shoved it in. maybe I've been unlucky, but it's not worth the risk to me to assume that a plug is going to stay in place long-term when I can just glue a "permanant" patch instead.

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Good to know of a real world example.

Giving this further thought I can see how the heavier carcass of a motor vehicle tire might net better results with plugging than the thin carcass of a bicycle tire.

As for real world, in addition to the plugs, I carry a tube and patches should I be unable to make the tubeless setup work after a puncture. Same reasoning supports preferring carrying a hand pump over CO2 cartridges. The hand pump will never run out of air.

Another useful angle is running CushCore inserts. I have twice successfully ridden a mile or two back to the trailhead after a puncture that sealant didn't fix. I really love this solution overall. In both instances the tires were well worn and ready to be trashed, so no repair was made once back home. If I'd been further away I may have tried the plugs.

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5 hours ago, Ridenfool said:

Another useful angle is running CushCore inserts. I have twice successfully ridden a mile or two back to the trailhead after a puncture that sealant didn't fix. I really love this solution overall. In both instances the tires were well worn and ready to be trashed, so no repair was made once back home. If I'd been further away I may have tried the plugs.

I've had CushCore for 3 years now and have the same experience. Since I've been running the inserts(I recently switched from CushCore to Rimpact) I've had exactly one unfixable flat and that was a sidewall tear at Walnut. Still have no idea how I managed that at Walnut but it happened. Rode back to the car basically just on the CushCore insert and had zero issues outside of a mushy rear tire with no air. All other flats were minor punctures where the sealant did its job and required no further work.

Yes, inserts add quite a bit of rolling weight which is why I switched to Rimpact(nearly half the weight of CushCore) but it's well worth the peace of mind for me. Especially since a little extra weight just means I have to work a bit harder which is a good thing.

Edited by quixoft
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Right before I left town I had my bike looked over, sealant added, etc.  The chain was badly worn and they replaced it.  I did not replace the cassette or chainring.   Now when I ride under a load it makes a clicking sound.  Will it likely wear in and be fine?  The sound already has definitely diminished but still makes a sound under a heavy load (climbing steep stuff).

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Take your chainring and cassette off the bike, get every piece of grime off, put them back on and tighten them to spec. Lube everything and take it for a ride. If it is still making noise then they probably need to be replaced. Sometimes it is just a matter of having a clean component and a dirty component or a tight component and a loose component. 

If they are all clean, all tight and all lubed, then the problem is a metal mismatch somewhere and that is usually replacement. I typically replace the ring first because it is cheaper and it is used 100% of the time. The cassette will spread that 100% across the different gears.

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In my experience, if the chain is between .75 - 1% worn it'll 'mate' with the cassette, though takes a few rides.  Even if it skips on cogs/gears 1 & 2.  If it's not skipping and only clicking, you should be ok.  If worn beyond 1% the cassette definitely needs replacing.  I haven't had issues with the chainring but YMMV.

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I ordered a new shock and the rear mount was supposed to be 30.5mm. Upon arrival and inspection however, it appears to be around 31.5mm. I'm assuming there must be a way to remove the mounting hardware and take out the smallest spacer on each side, which I think would get me to where I need to be. Is there a special tool that is used on shock mounting hardware? I'm unable to loosen by hand. 

image.png.191ebfb6e7283c3cc762059ee6014452.png

Edited by throet
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12 hours ago, throet said:

I ordered a new shock and the rear mount was supposed to be 30.5mm. Upon arrival and inspection however, it appears to be around 31.5mm. I'm assuming there must be a way to remove the mounting hardware and take out the smallest spacer on each side, which I think would get me to where I need to be. Is there a special tool that is used on shock mounting hardware? I'm unable to loosen by hand. 

image.png.191ebfb6e7283c3cc762059ee6014452.png

The caps should just slide off. A tool is required for removing the DU bushing though. I have a bushing press if you need.

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54 minutes ago, Chief said:

The caps should just slide off. A tool is required for removing the DU bushing though. I have a bushing press if you need.

OK that makes sense. As it turned out, those plastic caps were extending just about .5mm past the metal DU bushing on each side. I was able to tap that end into the shock link with a rubber mallet and get it to align properly with the bolt hole. Bit snug, but hopefully all is well. 

Edited by throet
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An ask: does anyone have a spare shorty Ergon grip (just need one!)?  They are used with Grip Shift and Rohloff hubs, like this: Ergon GP1 Gripshift Handlebar Grips  

Will also check at yellow bike project. 

The Spearfish is at Bicycle House waiting for its left side Grip Shift (to shift double chainrings).  Mechanic said he thought that set up could work, although there may need to be a new dropper seat post lever. 

random info: Grips for a Rohloff hub have one short and one long, cause you are only shifting on one side.  For Grip Shift, it's two shorties.  I'm assuming nobody with a 1 x uses GripShift, but if so, they'd just get the Rohloff set. 

Edited by June Bug
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7 hours ago, June Bug said:

An ask: does anyone have a spare shorty Ergon grip (just need one!)?  They are used with Grip Shift and Rohloff hubs, like this: Ergon GP1 Gripshift Handlebar Grips  

Will also check at yellow bike project. 

The Spearfish is at Bicycle House waiting for its left side Grip Shift (to shift double chainrings).  Mechanic said he thought that set up could work, although there may need to be a new dropper seat post lever. 

random info: Grips for a Rohloff hub have one short and one long, cause you are only shifting on one side.  For Grip Shift, it's two shorties.  I'm assuming nobody with a 1 x uses GripShift, but if so, they'd just get the Rohloff set. 

I likely do, but I won't be back in Austin to look for it for a while. Can't you just grab any old one and saw it off?

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8 hours ago, TAF said:

Can't you just grab any old one and saw it off?

That may be an option.  One cracked last fall and I replaced with a new set, but I don't know where the survivor of the original set got to. 

I'd recommend staying in Salida for as long as humanly possible.  I got excited today because I noticed that the forecast high temps may drop to *101* near the end of the current 10-day-forecast with some at least minuscule chance of rain. 

Edited by June Bug
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19 hours ago, June Bug said:

random info: Grips for a Rohloff hub have one short and one long, cause you are only shifting on one side.  For Grip Shift, it's two shorties.  I'm assuming nobody with a 1 x uses GripShift, but if so, they'd just get the Rohloff set. 

Kids Bikes with a 1X have a similar setup. I ended up finding these but because it was a kids grip I still had to cut it down. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7TUMVJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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19 hours ago, June Bug said:

An ask: does anyone have a spare shorty Ergon grip (just need one!)?  They are used with Grip Shift and Rohloff hubs, like this: Ergon GP1 Gripshift Handlebar Grips  

Will also check at yellow bike project. 

The Spearfish is at Bicycle House waiting for its left side Grip Shift (to shift double chainrings).  Mechanic said he thought that set up could work, although there may need to be a new dropper seat post lever. 

random info: Grips for a Rohloff hub have one short and one long, cause you are only shifting on one side.  For Grip Shift, it's two shorties.  I'm assuming nobody with a 1 x uses GripShift, but if so, they'd just get the Rohloff set. 

My wife's bike has grip shift, only on the right. Got a set of these on Amazon for $12. She LOVES them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPT2CQ1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

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21 hours ago, AustinBike said:

My wife's bike has grip shift, only on the right. Got a set of these on Amazon for $12. 

Excellent possibility, but I'm confused by this:  JooFn Bike Grips Handlebar 130mm & 90mm Lockable Handle Bar Rubber End Grip 0.874 inch Diameter for Multi-Speed Bicycle Mountain BMX Floding

So I googled "floding" (nada results), ended up wandering in Urban Dictionary and discovered "Barbenheimer" = seeing Barbie AND Oppenheimer, possibly back to back. 

 

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21 minutes ago, June Bug said:

Excellent possibility, but I'm confused by this:  JooFn Bike Grips Handlebar 130mm & 90mm Lockable Handle Bar Rubber End Grip 0.874 inch Diameter for Multi-Speed Bicycle Mountain BMX Floding

Someone with poor translation skills crammed key words into the description because search engines might not get "all bicycles." 

Be careful with Urban Dictionary. You might find something you wish you hadn't read.

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